N.6 | WOMEN IN JEWELRY: Icons and trailblazers in a male dominated land

When I decided to become a jeweler, I didn’t realize how male dominated the field was. You might think there would be more women involved, but when you look at the majority of jewelry designers and bench jewelers throughout history, it’s mostly men. I’m often inspired by them such as David Webb, Haroldo Burle Marx, and Din Vahn, but I also love looking back at the women who paved the way for so many of us now having a space and a voice.

If you don’t already know about these women, here’s a little rundown. What I admire in all of them is their authenticity, bold courage, and distinctive design language. Qualities I strive to embody in my own work.

SUZANNE BELPERON

Belperron was one of the most influential and pioneering jewelry designers of the 20th century. Renowned for her sculptural, sensual, and innovative approach, she broke away from traditional jewelry conventions by creating bold, fluid forms that emphasized the beauty of materials themselves rather than relying on ornamentation.

She worked for Maison Boivin and later for Bernard Herz before continuing independently under her own name. She famously never signed her pieces, saying, “My style is my signature.”

Belperron was a true pioneer in modern jewelry design, introducing organic, architectural, and avant garde forms long before they became mainstream. Her work combined influences from nature, ancient civilizations, and modern art, and she often experimented with unusual materials such as rock crystal, chalcedony, and smoky quartz alongside precious stones and metals.

LINE VAUTRIN

Vautrin was a visionary French artist and designer celebrated for her poetic and unconventional approach to decorative objects and jewelry. Often called the “poetess of metal,” she created pieces that blended surrealism, symbolism, and humor, transforming everyday materials into works of art.

She is best known for her intricate gilt bronze and talosel creations, a resin material she developed and mastered herself. Her mirrors, boxes, and jewelry have a dreamlike quality, often featuring engraved words, mythological motifs, and playful inscriptions.

Vautrin pioneered a distinctive artistic language that blurred the line between fine art, jewelry, and decorative design. She championed individuality and emotion over mass production, and today her work remains a cornerstone of 20th century French design for its whimsy, craftsmanship, and deeply personal vision.

PALOMA PICASSO

Picasso is a French designer celebrated for her bold, expressive, and instantly recognizable approach to jewelry. The daughter of Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot, she brought an artist’s eye and a fearless sense of individuality to design.

She rose to prominence in the late 1970s and 1980s through her work with Tiffany & Co., where she introduced a new, modern energy to fine jewelry defined by strong geometric shapes, vibrant gemstones, and striking use of color. Her work merged art, architecture, and fashion, appealing to women who wanted jewelry that reflected independence and confidence.

Paloma Picasso helped redefine jewelry as a personal statement rather than a symbol of status. Her designs were meant to be worn with attitude and individuality, pieces that embodied creativity, sophistication, and strength.

ANGELA CUMMINS

Cummings was an American jewelry designer celebrated for her sculptural, nature inspired designs and her pioneering use of inlay techniques in fine jewelry.

Trained in Europe and later designing for Tiffany & Co. in the 1970s and 1980s, she became known for her fluid, organic forms that echoed the natural world such as leaves, shells, coral, and stones, translated into elegant compositions of gold, mother of pearl, jade, and coral.

She was among the first to blend high jewelry craftsmanship with a modern, minimalist sensibility, merging art, design, and nature into wearable sculpture. Her technical mastery of stone inlay and her ability to create harmony between contrasting materials influenced generations of designers who followed.

VIVIANNA TORUN BULOW-HUBE

Torun was a groundbreaking Swedish jewelry designer celebrated for her minimalist, sculptural forms and her philosophy that jewelry should flow naturally with the body rather than decorate it.

Known simply as Torun, she rejected the idea of jewelry as status or ornamentation and instead created fluid, organic designs that celebrated movement, balance, and simplicity. Her pieces often featured silver, rock crystal, moonstone, or quartz, materials chosen for their purity and connection to nature.

She was one of the first female silversmiths to gain international recognition and became closely associated with Georg Jensen, where her timeless designs such as the iconic Vivianna bangle watch defined a new era of modern Scandinavian design.

Torun’s work fused design, function, and emotion, inspiring a new generation of jewelers to see adornment as an extension of the spirit rather than a symbol of luxury.

ELSA PERETTI

Peretti was an Italian designer and visionary who transformed the language of jewelry through simplicity, sensuality, and modern form.

Beginning her career as a model before joining Tiffany & Co. in the 1970s, she brought a sculptural, organic sensibility to fine jewelry, turning everyday shapes like bones, hearts, beans, and bottles into elegant icons. Her work celebrated the natural curves of the body and redefined luxury as something understated, personal, and effortlessly modern.

She also pioneered the use of sterling silver in high jewelry, making beautiful design more accessible while maintaining exceptional craftsmanship and refinement. Her minimalist yet deeply emotional approach continues to shape how we think about jewelry today as art, as design, and as something intimate to live with.

Do you have a favorite? I am biased because I truly admire all of them, for their authenticity and bold designs.

x Natalia